After a long season I'm currently about half way through my off-season... The last time I touched my bike was at track nationals and currently don't have any of my bikes built up to the point of being ride-able - Which helps curb any desire to go for a spin!
Despite living in Hawaii for the best part of 8 years I've never really spent that much time in the ocean, and even less time on a surfboard. However, weekend adventures out into the ocean on a stick before track nationals has snowballed into surfing 5 days a week. Yup, I'm hooked!
"Wax on, wax off!" - Miyagi-san.
I caught my first wave on a long board a few years back, but this time I'm doing in the hard way... Trying to ride waves on a short board. Right now I own a 5' 11" board that proved hard work when it came to catching waves, and a loaner board that's a 6' 10'. Only a little bigger, but a noticeable increase in buoyancy, which has helped make the learning curve a little less steep. So far I've been out in waves up to about 3-4ft range (3-4ft = Hawaiian, which is 6-8ft face) and so far I've not reached what I feel is my limit of comfortable level. I've had enough wipeouts to have my technique for that dialed in... The surfing part is coming slowly but surely. It's fun to be out in the ocean doing a sport that I suck at, vs. bike racing where I've got a little slice of talent. Figuring out new stuff and experiencing different wave conditions is fun. Picking sea urchin spikes out of my foot was less enjoyable. Surfing is definitely humbling, and a bit stress reliever.
My bike collection isn't up for sale yet, but damn surfing sure is addictive!


